gprguy
Well-Known Member
Glad to see they are clearing out the backlog.
The new packaging is interesting too, very minimalistic.Good idea. For my camper I put a fan behind my older Orion and I used this little controller to run it automatically.
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4500 Camper/Jeep Hauler Build
- Thread starter gprguy
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- 4500 camper chassis cab jeep
The new packaging is interesting too, very minimalistic.
Nice thoughts on the controller. I wonder if I could design an adaptor to a fan, and get someone to 3D print it. Or break down and finally buy a 3D printer!Glad to see they are clearing out the backlog.
Good idea. For my camper I put a fan behind my older Orion and I used this little controller to run it automatically.
gprguy
Well-Known Member
Probably would be pretty straightforward. The issue might be what temperature it needs to withstand - I know the XS is supposed to not get nearly as hot as the old Orions but I'm sure it still gets warm. Might need to be printed out of something besides normal PLA, like PETG or ABS. If it needs to be ABS you are supposed to use an enclosure due to the fumes. I haven't done anything with ABS yet but I do have access to an enclosed printer if needed...
The manual says the back plate will never exceed 90C, so definitely pretty toasty. That said, the mounting feet of the Orion are plastic, so nothing it’s mounted to should ever see that high of a temperature. It looks like PTEG has a glass transition temp of between 80 and 100C, so it would probably be suitable.
gprguy
Well-Known Member
My folks are in town so not too much truck work going on, but my Dad and I found some time to finish up 99% of the plumbing - air and hydraulic.
The only plumbing left is the 3 short air lines on the driver's side, and those will just be in my way at this point. All of the cross box wiring (for now at least, I will probably run an AC outlet over there later) should be done as well. Other than a VE.Direct cable I suppose.
Next project will definitely be back to the aluminum skin and trim.
The only plumbing left is the 3 short air lines on the driver's side, and those will just be in my way at this point. All of the cross box wiring (for now at least, I will probably run an AC outlet over there later) should be done as well. Other than a VE.Direct cable I suppose.
Next project will definitely be back to the aluminum skin and trim.
gprguy
Well-Known Member
As promised, back to the aluminum. So naturally step 1 is - plastic?
There's a design flaw with my frame, probably only one of many, but it has to do with how thin the front wall is (only 1"). I knew I had an unsolved problem as to how to deal with all of the angles but I ran out of ideas and figured I'd work it out later. Well later is now. There's this gap between the side panels and the square tube that makes up the front wall:
Might not look like much but I am concerned when I run rivets down the corner it will either pull in, or worse make a bad rivet/connection. Since I can't go back in time and make the front wall 2" thick like I should have with an extra angle to mount the skin to, I need to find something to fill the gap. After a lot of pondering I decided on Delrin since it machines/cuts well. I made a bunch of 13 degree angle 3/4" strips and here they are cleco'd in place.
And with countersunk flat head rivets.
Now with that same panel back in place everything sits nicely.
I need to repeat this on the driver's side, but I'm going to finish the passenger first. On to aluminum for real, building the remaining trim around the bottom.
That's as far as I made it today, I need to drill for all the rivets next and then make yet more trim.
There's a design flaw with my frame, probably only one of many, but it has to do with how thin the front wall is (only 1"). I knew I had an unsolved problem as to how to deal with all of the angles but I ran out of ideas and figured I'd work it out later. Well later is now. There's this gap between the side panels and the square tube that makes up the front wall:
Might not look like much but I am concerned when I run rivets down the corner it will either pull in, or worse make a bad rivet/connection. Since I can't go back in time and make the front wall 2" thick like I should have with an extra angle to mount the skin to, I need to find something to fill the gap. After a lot of pondering I decided on Delrin since it machines/cuts well. I made a bunch of 13 degree angle 3/4" strips and here they are cleco'd in place.
And with countersunk flat head rivets.
Now with that same panel back in place everything sits nicely.
I need to repeat this on the driver's side, but I'm going to finish the passenger first. On to aluminum for real, building the remaining trim around the bottom.
That's as far as I made it today, I need to drill for all the rivets next and then make yet more trim.
gprguy
Well-Known Member
I appreciate it - it's taken a lifetime to get to this point, I still remember laying outside in the gravel under my first Jeep with my dad, shortening the t-case output shaft literally with an old Black & Decker circular saw we put an abrasive blade in. We managed to cut it straight-ish. Things have come a long ways since then..
Couple of photos from last night, it's going to be several days of tedium making and fitting all the trim.
Might have to move the box off the table to get at some of the inside trim. Still figuring that out.
Couple of photos from last night, it's going to be several days of tedium making and fitting all the trim.
Might have to move the box off the table to get at some of the inside trim. Still figuring that out.
gprguy
Well-Known Member
Pinhead, Ram edition.
