On the topic of tire width for the OEM alcoas, I'll share what I learned from a few months ago going through this same question.
It seems that basically every manufacture recommends a minimum of 8" wheel on a 35-37" tire that is 12.5 wide. There may be some outliers higher or lower you can find, but the main players I looked at were all at 8" I believe. I'm pretty sure the factory Alcoas are 6" wide, if not they are 6.5" (double check this, I am struggling to recall the specifics right now). So you're obviously not within the tire manufactures bounds. That right there is enough to cause some people to shy away from it, since a lot of folks are rule followers and want to just stay in the lines, which is fine, it's just not me. I want to know why (and break the rules a little, because why not?).
So I was digging up some of the reasoning, and without getting too deep, what I found is generally the following:
- Too wire a tire on too narrow a wheel can cause the tire to flex/roll during high speed cornering
- Too wide a tire on too narrow a wheel means that you have less contact patch if running the recommended pressures or…
- Too low pressure to get a proper contact patch
- Probably a fair amount of safety built in, along with lawyercats and ease for the business
So, with that said, I still ended up going with 35/12.5/17s on my factory Alcoas. Why? Well for one I absolutely love the look. Hell if I could get a 37" spare in the OEM spot I'd have run that probably. (I'll also point out that I got a truck with 4.10s exactly because I wanted to run 35/37s)
For two, because there are so, so, so many guys running these exact setups, and you
never hear about any issues towing heavy. No blowouts, no bead issues, nothing. While that isn't a very scientific reason, it's also just good to see (or not see, haha).
I'm not worried about high speed cornering "control" because the truck is a tow pig, and I'm not attacking corners Laguna Seca. I've slightly lowered the tire pressure to give myself a good tire contact patch. Also, the OEM tires have a load index of 117 (2833 lbs) while the tires I went with have a load index of 121 (3197 lbs). Both are at max psi. So I figure that I'm 360 lbs more weight rating per tire, across 4 rear tires, gives me almost 1500lbs more carrying capacity (just from tires). So even if I bring the psi down lower than max, I'm still going to have some built in overhead to do so.
Lastly, lawyers voices matter, as do business expenses. Toyo can save money by not doing testing, or load tables for across additional wheel width. It's probably almost nothing in cost per tire size, but across all the tires in all the sizes it adds up. And the most important factor being lawyers. There needs to be a large overhead for safety margin, and while I don't know exactly why, I'm sure this cuts into that overhead some. Enough for me to be at all concerned? No, absolutely not. For you? Idk, maybe? Maybe not? A lot of people are afraid of j-walking because it's technically illegal, so, ya know.
CJC has done a lot of duallys at this point with 12.5 wides on the factory Alcoas. I've seen them posted all over, some guys towing heavy and often. Then there are similar things going on over in Ford and Bowtie land. All that adds up to me not being worried.
I'll also state, that I've got a hint of rebel, but I'm not stupid, and I'm not going to endanger my family by making stupid moves. I purchased the max tow ram, which is way overkill for my 20k camper, because I wanted a lot of overhead. In part, so that I could make sure that stupid decisions still left me with margins of safety. That's also partly why I went with the tire size, so that with the lower psi and stiffer sideway it would have similar performance to oem.
This ended up being a lot longer winded than I planned on, but hopefully it's at least somewhat helpful, if not forgive my ramblings and please share pics once everything is wrapped!